20.09.2021
The Rheingau Wine Gourmet about Balthasar Ress
The Rheingauer Weinschmecker online blog recently reported in detail on the release of the new Grosse Gewächse. Wines from the house of Ress were also praised here.
"VDP GG preview with wow effect:
Rheingau: full concentration on the Rüdesheimer Berg: Leitz (Kaisersteinfels, but not only!) exceptionally strong (Rottland), as well as Künstler (Schlossberg) and Ress (Rottland).
The Grosse Gewächse are here:
2019 Nussbrunnen, Hattenheim, Riesling trocken GG VDP.GROSSE LAGE® Winery Balthasar Ress.
Quite a strong flight in every respect! Salty coolness from Ress, fine fruity elegance from Jung, already noticeable maturity from Barth.
2019 BERG ROTTLAND, Rüdesheim, Riesling Trocken GG VDP.GROSSE LAGE® Winery Balthasar Ress.
Vollrads with unusually strong caramel note, Johannishof with more residual sweetness than the rest, which was less good in direct comparison, but probably all the better with food, Ress again strong.
Ress, matured:
There are few greater pleasures than tasting aged Rieslings from ambitious producers. Quite surprisingly, a small phalanx of noble sweet drops from the house of Balthasar Ress came to my table, with some tangible surprises.
Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg
I have already written about my favorite Rheingau vineyard in more detail a few times on this blog, so I will spare myself a vineyard portrait here. The 1978 Berg Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett shows how well the wines age. A Kabinett that earns a "C" at the beginning and only a "t" at the end. A wine in the Cabinet tradition. Wonderfully matured with a beguiling juicy spice, aromas of dried fruit. Very full, good length, phenomenally vital for its age with the best future prospects! 1982 Berg Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett Oh yes, the 80s! Many disappointments (especially 80 and 84), and so far I have only been quite expectant of 1983s, which have held up well over the year. This 1982, however, commands great respect. 8% alcohol, fine sweetness, coupled with a very incisive but not distracting acidity that helps preserve its youthfulness. Hints of raisins, caramel and reneclaude, chapeau! 2013 Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg Auslese In retrospect, a gigantic vintage for dry AND for sweet... by the required margin, perhaps the best Rheingau Riesling vintage since 2004 and 2008! Racy, well-integrated acidity, perfect balance with noble sweetness, with real trine flow! A wow wine! 2007 Rüdesheim Berg Rottland TBA a giant. Indestructible. Immortal. Dark amber, but close to no tangible age notes. Lots of caramel paired with fruit bread and raisins. Powerful sweetness, long finish 2011 Rüdesheim Berg Rottland Riesling Auslese This was just really not an easy year, and you can taste it. The wine struggles a bit in the environment of Riesling majesties, but deserves commendable judgment.
NUSSBRUNNEN
One of Hattenheim's Brunnenlagen, and in some years my Hattenheim favorite 2012 Nussbrunnen Eiswein This is exactly how Eiswein must taste, concentrated sweetness, typical Eiswein aromatics, very juicy, spicy, caramel, thick 2012 Nussbrunnen Auslese While the aforementioned Eiswein only wants to be enjoyed in small doses, this Auslese demands a large glass. An Auslese that is more on the fine side than the lush side with very fine acidity. Good balance and structure, I like it! 2007 Nussbrunnen Auslese Despite powerful sweetness typical Nussbrunnen, but from a warm year, which is to the detriment of the acidity. Very juicy, dried yellow fruit and fruit, especially peach and apricot, a wine with oomph that calls for a foie gras with brioche. Was not in the fridge, unfortunately. Sorry, I have to stop here now and make a quick trip to the deli..."